Communion Of Dreams


Getting fixed.
January 28, 2009, 11:38 am
Filed under: Alzheimer's, Art, Bipolar, Book Conservation, Depression, Health, Survival, Travel

“Say, while you’re here, maybe you can take a look at this piece of artwork I have. It was given to me by the artist, a friend, but it seems to be coming away from the frame.”

This is part of the price of having owned an art gallery and having done framing. Friends and family ask these questions. But it could be worse – I could be a doctor.

“Sure, be glad to.”

* * * * * * *

Email from a friend, following my post about depression:

I hope you’ve turned the corner on the inertia and are getting back into it. Got meds?

My reply:

Lets see – yeah, a couple of different ones for my bp.  For the depression?  Nope – the state of treatment there is still less than a crap shoot, in terms of finding something that works.  And since I am not paralyzed by it, and know how to work my way out of it over time, I’d rather spend the time doing that than mucking around with random chemicals on a “try this for six weeks” basis.

* * * * * * *

I sat in the recliner, just enjoying the picture created by the fair-sized window on the wall across from me.  All I could see were trees – no sky, no landscape beyond – just trees.

But what trees!

Coastal redwoods.  And only three or four of them.  About 25 feet outside the window, so I was only getting a partial view, mostly of that rough, somewhat shabby but oversized bark.  With a couple of horizontal branches to make the composition more interesting visually.

“Nice view out this window.”

“Yeah, we sited the house to do that.”

My wife designed this house.  It was good to be staying there.

* * * * * * *

On the flight out I sat and thought.  For a long time.  Listening to music, eyes closed.  The Southwest jet was only about 2/3 full, so my wife and I had plenty of room in our three-seat row.  I could just relax, spread out a bit, and think.

I don’t do that often enough.  Usually, I am reading, blogging, watching something, having conversation.  Or I am working – whether at my conservation bench, or playing house elf, or doing something else.  But I seldom sit and just think.

Or listen to music.  I got out of the habit while caring for Martha Sr.  It was difficult to do, since so often I had to be listening to the baby monitor we used to make sure she was OK.

I used to really enjoy listening to music.  Just listening, thinking.

* * * * * * *

“See, it’s pulled away from the frame.”

I looked at the piece.  We’d hung it off an open door so that I could examine it easily while it was suspended.  Abstract, large pieces of torn paper, colored in pastel tones of blues and greens and beiges.  The pieces had been heavily gessoed then painted with a thinned-down acrylic.  To add some surface effects, the mounted pieces of paper were rolled and folded such that they created a high relief of some five or six inches.  All this tied onto the base sheet (also gessoed and painted), which was adhered to a piece of foamcore.  This was then mounted by construction adhesive to a strong boxed-“H” wooden frame which you couldn’t see from the front.  The whole effect was pretty good, if you like abstract art.  Overall, the piece was about 3′ wide by 5′ tall.

“Yeah, I see what you mean.  The top part has curled away from the frame, peeling away.”

“You can do whatever you need to.  I’ve got some Gorilla Glue – maybe that’s strong enough.  Or, if you want to screw the piece back onto the frame, I can get some paint to blend in and mask the screws.  Whatever you think it needs.”

I looked at the piece again, hanging there.  Pulled a bit, knocked off a chunk of the bead of adhesive.  “Let me think about it.”

* * * * * * *

They tell you to expect it to take a year to recover.  You don’t believe them.

But they’re right.

Oh, that doesn’t relieve you of the duty to try and get your shit together more quickly.  To try and get past the soul-aching exhaustion that comes with having fought the good fight for so very, very long.  You have to do that.  It is absolutely necessary.

But it isn’t sufficient.  It will still take a year.  Or longer.

* * * * * * *

I sat in the chair, looking out the window.  I had changed my position ever so slightly – now, on the extreme right, I could see about half of the large birdfeeder.  We had filled it and hoisted it up that morning.  Now maybe a dozen Steller’s Jays were mobbing, taking turns at the feeder, flicking in and out of my picture.

If you know Bluejays, you know these guys.  Smart.  Stubborn.  Survivors.

Sometimes, being a little stubborn is what’s needed.  Stubborn in a smart way.  While several of their number kept some larger crows away, the others would eat.  Then they’d swap.  Smart.

* * * * * * *

“We’ll get what we need when we’re out.  Is there an art supply store in Ft. Bragg?”

“Yeah, Racine’s.  Downtown.”  My sister-in-law looked at me, a little quizzical. “I’ll be happy to talk with the artist and get some paints and do the touch-up, if you just want to remount the piece with screws or something.  There’s no reason you have to try and match what she used.”

“I won’t need any paints.  Nor any screws.”

“What are you going to do?”

“Well, the problem isn’t the adhesive.  The problem is the lamination.”

“Sorry?”

“See,” I pointed at the back of the piece.  “There’s just this piece of foamcore.  There’s nothing to balance the force of the paper mounted to the other side.  Rather than trying to force the whole thing back, which will probably result in snapping the foamcore backing, we’re going to dismount it entirely.  Then I will put a layer of stiff cloth on the back, using an adhesive similar to the gesso on the front.  I want to go to the art supply store, since they’ll either have the PVA I want, or I can get some gesso and use that.”

“Will that work?”

“Yup.  It’s a basic process from book conservation, just applied on a larger scale than I usually do it.  Same thing as getting the balance right on the cover of a book – cloth on the outside, paper on the inside.  It stops the bookboard from warping.”

* * * * * * *

It’s been a year.  Or it will have been next week, when I’m on the east coast.

On the day I’ll meet my co-author for the care-giving book, as it happens.  Talk about serendipity.

Nothing magical about that.  But anniversaries have meaning.

* * * * * * *

I can’t quite explain how it changed.  But somewhere along the way out to California I found something.  Whether it was in the music, or the thinking, or just the quiet place in my head that resulted from an enforced relaxation for several hours, it was there.

Stubbornness.

Not the stubbornness which saw me through the long years of care-giving.  That was different.  Defiance in the face of the disease ravaging Martha Sr.

No, this was less about simple survival, and more about . . . well, joy, I guess.

I wasn’t swept away with feelings of overwhelming happiness or anything.  But there was a sense that joy could once again be mine.  Not just satisfaction in work.  Not just enjoyment of life.  But joy in being able to create.  Maybe not yet.  But the possibility was there for the future.

A smart kind of stubbornness.

* * * * * * *

We turned the dining room table into a workbench.  I laid down newspapers, then we positioned large jars to support the artwork from the front without damaging the high-relief rolls and folds of paper.  I needed access to the back of the piece, and this was the only way to do it.

First, I cut away the frame.  Some of the facing of the foamcore came off with the frame, but not much.  Then I removed all the remaining old adhesive from both the foamcore and the frame itself.  I set the frame aside.

Then I mixed up the straight PVA I’d found at the art supply store with water, 50-50.  Set that aside.

I took the piece of light cotton duckcloth I’d gotten, and cut it into three strips, each about 2′ tall and as wide as the foamcore.  I laid out more newspaper on the floor.  I laid a strip of cloth on the newspaper.  And using a 4″ plastic putty knife, I poured/spread the PVA across the cloth.  It was necessary for it to be completely saturated, the fibers completely relaxed.  I waited for a minute for this to happen.  Then I picked up the cloth by one edge, and took it to the table.  I draped it across the foamcore, and spread it out smoothly, making sure to have good adhesion.

I repeated the process with the other two strips of cloth, overlapping them a few inches.

“Now we wait,” I told my SIL.

“For what?”

“For it to dry overnight.  If the cloth shrinks the right amount as the PVA dries, it will cause a balancing force to the gessoed paper on the other side, and the foamcore will flatten out.  If it is not enough, another application of PVA in the morning will help get the balance right.  If it is too much, I can spray it with water and let the adhesive relax.  It’s just a matter of finding the right balance.”

She looked at the contraption sitting on the table.  She said nothing, but it was clear she was skeptical.

* * * * * * *

I had been waiting around for something to happen.

Well, no, I had been trying to figure out how to force something to happen.  And being very depressed that I couldn’t do it.

I was being stupid stubborn.  Forcing myself to work.  To write.  To try and find some happiness in this or that.

It was, perhaps, a necessary stage.  Just to show myself that I had the stubbornness I needed, even if it was applied ineptly.

But there was a better path.  A smarter path.  Just relax, and start walking.

* * * * * * *

I poured myself a cup of coffee, walked over to the table.

The foamcore was almost perfectly flat.  A slight rise on one corner where the cloth was stronger than the minimal amount of paper on the other side, but that would flatten out just fine.

I sipped my coffee, glanced out the window.  From that vantage point I could see the whole bird feeder.  There were crows there now, arguing with one another.

Sometimes you just need to understand your way out of problems.

Jim Downey



All’s well . . .
January 27, 2009, 12:21 am
Filed under: Humor, Psychic abilities, Travel

Hi.  Yeah, it’s me.  Got back to KC a little bit ago.  Uh-huh.  Just left the airport.  Should be home by 10:30.  But I don’t think we’re going to make it.  No.  See, the windshield is covered with ice, and the driver doesn’t want to pull over to get it fixed.  No, I mean really covered.  *Really covered.* I think the driver’s driving by E.S.P. or something.  Uh-huh. Yeah.  I’m just laying down because I don’t want to see it when we die.

That was from the idiot woman who sat behind us in the shuttle from Kansas City.  Who felt it incumbent upon her to call several friends and family members and relay that particular narrative of our imminent demise.

Well, obviously we made it home.  But the first 75 miles or so of the shuttle trip were more exciting than I care to have my life these days.  No, the driver wasn’t using ESP.  He just scrunched down in his seat, looked through his steering wheel, through the roughly 1/3 lower part of the windshield which was staying sorta clear of ice, thanks to the combined efforts of the blasting defrosters and the abused windshield wipers.  Which made a “SCHINK-schink” rasping sort of noise as they scraped over the growing continents of ice on the windshield.  Seriously, that’s what they looked like – there was a nice smear of Africa in front of the driver, with a nearly perfect Indian subcontinent over on the right, followed by a general vague outline of Asia as we all more or less remember it from grade school and news stories.  What was particularly exciting was that the light of oncoming traffic would cause the whole Northern Hemisphere of ice to glare brightly, making it impossible to see the road through the thin strip of windshield warming below.  But that was offset by the fact that during the dark periods the driver would *speed up* to make up for lost time.  And there were a fair number of dark spells, since the weather had turned so bad that even the insane drivers of Kansas City were smart enough to get off the road.

Ah well.  We made it.  I gave him a tip for the extra excitement when he dropped us off at the house about an hour later than we should have gotten home.

More about my Northern California adventures later.  After I’ve calmed down and recovered from the drive home.

Jim Downey

(Cross posted to UTI.)



And all will turn, to silver glass.*
January 20, 2009, 9:16 pm
Filed under: Bipolar, Depression, Sleep, Travel

Off in the morning, to northern California.  Visit family, relax.  Walk in the redwoods, and on the beaches.

Not a cure for the depression which dogs me.  It wouldn’t be depression if it could be resolved so easily.  I don’t think people who have never experienced it can quite understand that.

But it should help.  Help, as today’s quiet observation of an age passing helped.

Passing.  Like light on the water.*

I have scheduled several new items to show up here while I’m gone.  So don’t be a stranger.

Chat with you when I get back next week.

Jim Downey

*From this.



Hey, it’s not like it’s *their* money.
January 6, 2009, 9:41 pm
Filed under: ACLU, Bruce Schneier, Civil Rights, Government, NPR, Predictions, Society, Terrorism, Travel

Well, in spite of the fact that I doubt it will really change anything, this is good news:

Transportation Security Administration officials and JetBlue Airways are paying $240,000 to settle (.pdf) a discrimination lawsuit against a District of Columbia man who, as a condition of boarding a domestic flight, was forced to cover his shirt that displayed Arabic writing.

Oh noes! Not evil Arabic writing!!  Next thing you know, there’ll be evil Arabic numerals, taking over our culture!

According to a civil rights lawsuit, TSA and JetBlue demanded Raed Jarrar to sit at the back of a 2006 flight from New York to Oakland because his shirt read “We Will Not Be Silent” in English and Arabic.

As Jarrar was waiting to board, TSA officials approached him and said he was required to remove his shirt because passengers were not comfortable with it, according to the lawsuit. The suit claimed one TSA official commented that the Arabic lettering was akin to wearing a T-shirt at a bank stating, “I am a robber.”

The lawsuit claimed Jarrar, 30, invoked the First Amendment but acquiesced after it became clear to him that he would not be allowed to fly if he did not cover his shirt with one given to him by JetBlue officials.

From Jarrar’s blog, this:

“All people in this country have the right to be free of discrimination and to express their own opinions,” said Jarrar, who is currently employed with the American Friends Service Committee, an organization committed to peace and social justice. “With this outcome, I am hopeful that TSA and airlines officials will think twice before practicing illegal discrimination and that other travelers will be spared the treatment I endured.”

Nice sentiment. And not a bad settlement – I’m glad to see him get the money.  But I am highly skeptical that it will really change anything – it’s not, after all, like the people who did this will be paying the money out of their own pockets.  The Security Theater will continue, and there will still be instances of absurd behaviour such as we saw last week:

All Things Considered, January 2, 2009 · A Muslim-American passenger, one of nine members of a family detained and questioned at Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport after fellow passengers on their AirTran flight reported hearing a suspicious conversation, says the family is trying not to be angry at what happened.

So, yeah, Jarrar’s settlement is good news, but only one small bit of good news, and mostly for him.

Jim Downey

(Cross posted to UTI.)



Well, we can’t have *that*.
December 10, 2008, 10:35 am
Filed under: Humor, John Lennon, Space, Travel

One of those odd bits of news from one of my favorite parts of the world:

Councillor: ‘I watched six UFOs over North Wales’

A SHOTTON man is baffled after witnessing SIX UFOs in one night.

Town councillor William Barton saw the strange spectacle in the town’s skies last Friday evening at about 7.44pm.

He rushed to grab his binoculars and called on neighbours to show them the phenomenon.

Coun Barton, of Mill View, said: “They seemed to come from the Ewloe area and float towards Shotton. There were about six of them and they appeared and then vanished for a while.

But here’s the fun part:

Coun Barton says the objects appeared to be flying higher than 1,500ft, which means they would have been breaking air traffic regulations.

Well, we can’t have *that*.  And I love this:

A spokesman for Air Traffic Control at Liverpool John Lennon Airport said: “Nothing out of the ordinary was seen at this time.”

How cool is it that there’s a John Lennon Airport, eh?

Jim Downey

(Cross posted to UTI.)



And I thought . . .
December 6, 2008, 10:16 am
Filed under: Argentina, Humor, Travel, Weather, YouTube

. . . that my recent vacation around Argentina got a little rough sometimes:

Yeah, a cruise ship dining room, during a storm.  Best bits around 1:30, and then again about 4:30.

More later.

Jim Downey



Just for this line.
December 5, 2008, 8:15 am
Filed under: Humor, Travel

Chris Cope has a good post up about Christmas in Cardiff (a positive one, if you can believe I would say such a thing is “good”).  But like any good meditative writer, he uses that to wander a bit, exploring some related things in unexpected ways (in a nice reflection of the topic of his post – one of those ‘writer things’ most people might not appreciate).  But you should read it just for how he gets to this line:

When I lived in Portsmouth, where Dickens was born, I used to gleefully get drunk and go piss on his house.

More after a bit.

Jim Downey



TSA: Defining 1% as success.
November 18, 2008, 10:33 am
Filed under: Civil Rights, Constitution, Daily Kos, Failure, Government, Politics, Privacy, Society, Terrorism, Travel

Vice President Dick Cheney is reported to have set forth the “One Percent Doctrine” following the 9-11 attacks.  The basic premise is that if there is just 1% chance that an enemy is planning a serious terrorist attack, we have to treat it as though it were a certainty, and respond accordingly.

So, I suppose it really is no surprise that all the absurdity of “behaviour detection” that the TSA employs at airports leads to just a 1% arrest rate, and that they proclaim this as “”incredibly effective.”  No, seriously:

TSA’s ‘behavior detection’ leads to few arrests

WASHINGTON — Fewer than 1% of airline passengers singled out at airports for suspicious behavior are arrested, Transportation Security Administration figures show, raising complaints that too many innocent people are stopped.

A TSA program launched in early 2006 that looks for terrorists using a controversial surveillance method has led to more than 160,000 people in airports receiving scrutiny, such as a pat-down search or a brief interview. That has resulted in 1,266 arrests, often on charges of carrying drugs or fake IDs, the TSA said.

* * *

TSA spokeswoman Ellen Howe said the program has been “incredibly effective” at catching criminals at airports. “It definitely gets at things that other layers of security might miss,” Howe said.

Sure it does.  Because people who are carrying drugs or using a fake ID are really the terrorist threat that you say you are protecting us from. And to achieve that, they had to have over 99% false positives.

It’s just more Security Theater, of course: the illusion of ‘doing something’, not any kind of practical prevention.  I’ve written about this often, and in looking back through those posts it is clear that the real effect of this whole bureaucracy is to make us more and more inured to the systematic destruction of any sense of privacy at the hands of our government.  As I wrote just over a year ago:

Over the weekend, news came out of yet another “Trust us, we’re the government” debacle, this time in the form of the principal deputy director of national intelligence saying that Americans have to give up on the idea that they have any expectation of privacy. Rather, he said, we should simply trust the government to properly safeguard the communications and financial information that they gather about us. No, I am not making this up. From the NYT:

“Our job now is to engage in a productive debate, which focuses on privacy as a component of appropriate levels of security and public safety,” Donald Kerr, the principal deputy director of national intelligence, told attendees of the Geospatial Intelligence Foundation’s symposium in Dallas.

Little wonder that they’re happy to define 1% as “success” – it gets them exactly what they want.

Jim Downey

(Cross posted to UTI and Daily Kos.)



Jim Downey and the Federation of Silver.
November 10, 2008, 10:21 pm
Filed under: Argentina, N. Am. Welsh Choir, Patagonia, Travel

Part Five: OK, this is what I came for!

After spending the bulk of Saturday sitting in the hotel pub, sipping beer, making notes, doing a bit of quiet reading, things got busy.

That evening, the choir was giving a performance at one of the Catholic churches in downtown Buenos Aires, in honor of Dr. Edgar John Hughes, the British Ambassador to Argentina, who happens to be Welsh.  They all left for the rehearsal at the church about 4:00, the rest of us following at 6:30.  Of course, this being Argentina, nothing started on time – the concert got going about 8:30, and was quite enjoyable.  Following the performance, there was a brief reception, and then we went back to the hotel, arriving about 10:30.  Not too bad, right?

Well, except that we’d not had dinner.  Remember, no one eats dinner until starting about 9:00.

Not such a problem, eh?  I mean, plenty of restaurants were open, this was Saturday night in downtown Buenos Aires – the night was just starting!

Er, except that we had to be up at 3:30, in order to make our flight out of the Buenos Aires domestic airport, to Bariloche.

No, I am not kidding.  Well, actually, I am a bit.  See, Buenos Aires was changing over to Daylight Savings time, so the clocks had to be set forward Saturday night.  We needed to be up by 4:30 in order to make our flight.  Except that was 3:30.  And the place where we were going – San Carlos de Bariloche – was not going to change.  So, as far as our bodies, and the rest of the schedule, was concerned, we had to be up at 3:30.  Yeah, it was built into our schedule that we would have a maximum of five hours sleep.

I’d still like to find out what idiot came up with this idea.  I blame ‘Ferguson’.

And of course, that five hours maximum was really not possible.  Because we had to repack our bags before getting to bed.  And that, after persuading the hotel bar staff to come up with some sandwiches before we crashed.

Why not pack our bags earlier?  Good question.  Because there was a 15 kilo weight limit for the domestic airline.  So Alix and I had scaled back what we brought on the trip, by a considerable amount.  This was not a bad thing, overall, except that it necessitated packing in a certain way.  Specifically, in a way which required the more formal clothing we wore to the concert to go into the bags *first*.

Ah, well.  We survived.  Got something to eat – basically, I ordered the sandwiches as soon as I walked in the door, and then the check as soon as they were brought – and then got packed and crashed.  Up ungodly early, had a light breakfast (rolls, coffee, juice) in the hotel lobby, then climbed on the bus for the airport.

The domestic airport in Buenos Aires is as nice as any airport I’ve been to in the States.  Security was somewhat casual, but still substantial.  Got our bags checked, then up to wait for the plane.  And of course it was late – we could have easily slept in at least another hour, and still had plenty of time to spare.  The flight was two hours, with another light breakfast en route, along with the sort of absurd officiousness to be found among airline crew everywhere.

We landed in Bariloche, at a small airport about the size of the one here in Columbia.  In other words, getting off the plane, collecting our bags, getting out took no time to speak of.  Cold there – with mountains in the not-too-far distance!  Ferguson kept telling people mixed up and confusing things, but we got into buses OK, then set out for a bit of a tour of the area around Bariloche – effectively, a tour of Nahuel Huapi National Park.

It was absolutely gorgeous!  Simply stunning.  Early spring, into the mountains.  Take a look at the images on the Bariloche tourism site, but keep in mind that they are no better at capturing the beauty of these mountains than any photos of mountains anywhere are.  I was reminded more of the Swiss Alps than the Rocky Mountains, if that helps.  And it is little wonder that the area was largely settled by Germans/Swiss and Italians.  Which shows very much in the style of the architecture and in the culture of the town. We stopped at several junctures, just to get out and enjoy the view.  I was hooked – this is what lured me on the trip to start with!

The local guide for our bus, Frederico, was very knowledeable about not just the culture of the area, but also of the local geography.  Young, smart, relaxed, and with a much better command of English than Ferguson, it was a real pleasure to listen to him as we toured the countryside.  I would have loved to have traded him for Ferguson for the rest of the trip, but my karma is not that clean.

Finally, mid afternoon we rolled back into Bariloche proper, and went to the hotel.  (Whose website is yet another example of the god-awful preference they have for flash-design in Argentina!  Gah!!  Particularly given the poor condition overall of the internet infrastructure down there, especially outside of Buenos Aires, you’d think they wouldn’t want to run such a bandwidth-heavy design.  Makes me crazy.)  It was a complete debacle at the hotel, trying to get checked in and getting to our rooms.  Oh, the hotel staff was friendly and helpful enough, but it was like they were totally unprepared for the mass of us to arrive there, and good ol’ Ferguson just kept confusing everyone by standing up and loundly trying to ‘clarify’ things.  Madness.

Eventually, we got into our rooms.  Tired, hungry, we went out to seek something resembling a decent meal.  Turns out, this was the day that Argentina celebrates “Mother’s Day”.  Meaning that every restaurant had done a huge business for the normal lunch crowd, and we were arriving at the tail end of that.  But Alix and I were able to join another couple on the tour for a pleasant meal at the Familia Weiss – something of a local institution specializing in smoked meats, wild game, and handmade pastas.  I ordered some wild pork – which arrived as four large medallians, thick and juicy, and absolutely delicious – and easily more meat than I would normally eat in a week at home.  I think that it was at this point in the tour that I made the conscious decision to scale back radically on how much I was eating – in an effort to enjoy everything, I was over indulging.

It was also here that I discovered that there was a handcrafted – the Argentines translate it as “homemade” – label of the national beer Quilmes called “Patagonia Amber Lager” which is excellent.  Much like any decent microbrew amber ale you’d find here in the States.  And comes in a nice quart-sized bottle.  Yum.  That helped moderate my tiredness and aggravation at having to listen to Ferguson back at the hotel.

Following our leisurely meal, we wandered back to the hotel in the rain.  Got settled in.  Napped.  Alix went down for a social function with everyone in the lobby, but I decided that I was full enough, and tired enough, to just stay and snooze.  It was also evident at this point that I had the beginnings of a cold.  Ah, well, to be expected, I suppose.

Jim Downey



Jim Downey and the Federation of Silver.
November 7, 2008, 9:03 pm
Filed under: Argentina, N. Am. Welsh Choir, Patagonia, Society, Travel

Part Four: Interlude.

Some random notes and reflections while sitting in the hotel bar under a large stained-glass window, sipping beer, enjoying some peace and quiet while Alix is off to a rehearsal.

* * *

First, a note about that window, which says a lot about Buenos Aires.  It’s actually a long series of window panels, along the front of the hotel on one side, off of the entrance.  And outside the actual window is a very stout, very businesslike grid of steel bars.

You will see some variation of those bars everywhere.  I mean, everywhere.  Even the nicest parts of the city have this kind of security, which in the US is usually only found in high-crime areas.  It is hard to tell if it is due to crime, or whether it is a precaution against social breakdown such as has occured many times in the history of the country.  Regardless, security is a big deal here, though not so blatant as to draw the notice of most of the rest of the people in our party.  It is usually behind the scene, just out of casual sight.  The steel bars I mentioned.  There’s also plenty of solid locks and security cameras.  And lots of guards, both private and actual police.  I’d mentioned previously that the “Federal Police” were common on the streets, and they are.  But they also seem to function almost as attached security in many locations.  You see them positioned in front of nice hotels, banks, and businesses – usually the same ones, in the same locations, on the several days I have been here and exploring the immediate business area around our hotel.  I do know that the same cop has been outside the entrance to our hotel since we arrived.  He doesn’t seem to interact at all with the guests, and has looked past me completely when I have tried to make eye contact with him.  But he is on very friendly, almost joking, terms with the staff.  I don’t know whether this is some kind of formal arrangement, or just a form of low-level graft, with the cop taking a payoff from the hotel management to provide a presence.  But, it seems to work.

* * *

The whole pace of life is different here, and I understand this will be even more noticeable once we get out of the busy city.  Here, the locals will have breakfast at about 9:00.  As with any other meal, it is leisurely.  So business gets started sometime after.  The hours posted may say a shop opens at 10:00, but that seems to be little more than a fiction – almost no place was actually open and doing business by then, most not by 10:30.  Lunch starts sometime after 1:00, and will run at least a couple of hours, though the shops here usually seem to be open during that time.  They usually have a light meal, something along the lines of “tea”, with sweets, perhaps a thin sandwich (and by thin I mean basically mashed, the local preference being ham & cheese with the inevitable white bread, but pressed flat and toasted).  No one even thinks about dinner until 9:00 or so, and as I noted earlier most restaurants don’t open their doors for dinner until 8:00 or 8:30.

This is not to say that people eat heavily, or constantly, at each of these meals.  Rather they just seem to take their time, encouraging conversation.  It is quite civilized, but takes a real adjustment.  Even the wait-staff functions comfortably according to these rules, taking their time about bringing orders, in absolutely no hurry to rush you off.  They will not bring the bill until you specifically ask for it – and then in their own good time.

* * *

The local beer – or, should I say, the National Beer – is Quilmes.  Named after the city near Beunos Aires where it was first brewed by German immigrants.  It isn’t at all bad, really.  A crisp lager, about on a par with some of the better mass-produced American beers (which is to say, relatively light and low in alcohol).  I have seen in a store that the brand also makes a Bock and a Stout, though none of the restaurants I’ve been to seem to carry these.  Dark beer in general – “robusto” in Spanish – doesn’t seem to be very popular in the city.  Last night when I popped out to get some dinner, I stopped in to an upscale wine shop nearby, which also carries hard liquor.  Argentina does have a respectable wine industry, as I mentioned, and this was reflected in their wide selection of national labels, mostly of the Marbeck (Merlot) varietal.  I can’t drink more than a half glass of full bodied red wine (triggers migraines), but I have also had some of the local whites and those are all quite good.

There in the shop I did ask about local hard liquor.  It seems that other than some very low end whiskey and vodka, there really isn’t anything produced in Argentina.  A shame, really.  They did have a small selection of local liqueurs, most of which is based on the national addiction to dulche de leche.

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I’m not kidding about the Argentines being addicted to that stuff.  You find it everywhere.  There’s always great vats of the stuff at every breakfast layout, used as we would use jam or even butter for toast or rolls.  It goes into most cakes and pastries, and it is actually hard to find a candy sold in the country which *doesn’t* have dulche de leche in it.  It’s added to fruit cocktail.  It is one of the common flavors of ice cream.  It goes into coffee and tea.  Cookies with a thick version of the stuff sandwiched inside are very popular.

It is good, though cloying to my palate.  About as sweet as honey, but with an intense milk caramel flavor it imparts to everything it touches.  As popular and prevalent as it is, you’d expect this to be a nation of diabetics.

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Jim Downey




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